A tannat bunch ready for harvesting. (PHOTOS: ARGENTINA'S NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF VITICULTURE)
April 10, 2025
A Celebration of Salta’s Tannat
Every April 14, wine lovers in Uruguay, Argentina, and beyond raise their glasses to one of the boldest and most distinctive grape varieties in the world: Tannat. This annual celebration, known as World Tannat Day, pays homage to a grape that has not only survived but thrived in South America, becoming an emblem of resilience, complexity, and character. Though it may not be as universally recognised as Cabernet Sauvignon or Malbec, Tannat has carved out an identity that demands attention. Its deep, inky hues, robust tannins, and remarkable aging potential make it a true standout among red varietals. But what is the story behind this grape? How did it journey from the rolling vineyards of France to establish itself as a flagship variety in the New World? And why does it continue to captivate oenophiles despite its niche presence in global markets?
Tannat, which originated in the foothills of the Pyrenees in southern France, particularly in the Madiran region of Gascony, is known for producing wines of remarkable structure and longevity. The grape’s name itself hints at its defining characteristic, tannin. For centuries, Tannat remained largely confined to France, used primarily in the production of intensely structured, age-worthy wines. However, in the 19th century, this bold varietal found its way across the Atlantic, carried by Basque immigrants seeking new opportunities in South America.
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It was in Uruguay that Tannat truly flourished, thanks in large part to the pioneering work of Pascal Harriague, a French-Basque immigrant who introduced the variety to the country in the 1870s. Over time, Tannat became deeply intertwined with Uruguay’s viticultural identity, much like Malbec in Argentina. Today, it accounts for over a quarter of Uruguay’s total vineyard plantings and has gained international acclaim as the country’s flagship varietal. Meanwhile, in Argentina, Tannat has found a home in regions such as Mendoza San Juan and Salta, where it thrives in high-altitude vineyards that temper its powerful tannins and enhance its expressive fruit profile.
Tannat is a grape that commands respect in both the vineyard and the cellar. Its clusters vary in size from medium to large, characterised by their compact, cylindrical, and winged formation. The berries themselves are typically small to medium-sized, spherical or slightly elongated, with a thin yet tough skin that ranges from dark violet-red to bluish-black. These thick skins contribute to Tannat’s notoriously high levels of tannins, which give the wine its signature astringency and remarkable aging potential.
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This variety has been cultivated in 17 wine-producing provinces across Argentina, covering a total of 831 hectares, representing a modest 0.4 per cent of the country’s total vineyards, according to the country’s National Institute of Viticulture. Mendoza remains the stronghold of Tannat cultivation, accounting for 43.8 per cent (363.7 ha) of Argentina’s total plantings of this grape variety, San Juan follows with 31.0 per cent (257.4 ha), while the remaining provinces contribute 25.2 per cent (209.7 ha). However, the growth of Tannat has also been notable in Salta, a province renowned for its high-altitude vineyards. Salta, situated in Argentina’s northwest, is home to some of the highest vineyards in the world, with elevations exceeding 3,000 metres above sea level.
While best known for its Torrontés, the country’s emblematic white variety, Salta also produces outstanding Tannat wines, which benefit from the region’s intense sunlight, diurnal temperature variation, and mineral-rich soils. These factors contribute to wines with concentrated fruit, firm tannins, and a distinctive balance between power and elegance. In recent years, Tannat from Salta has garnered increasing attention for its remarkable structure and age-worthiness as winemakers in the province have embraced the grape, crafting wines that highlight its complexity and ability to thrive in extreme conditions. The result is a Tannat expression that is both bold and refined, with notes of black fruits, spice, and earthy minerality.
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Ahead of Monday April 14, 2025’s annual celebration of ‘World Tannat Day’,Thursday Food spotlights four labels from two of Argentina’s prestigious bodegas from the Salta province:
Nanni Reserva Tannat is a 100 per cent organic varietal made by Bodega Nanni from vineyards in the Cafayate Valley. On the nose, its aromas are highlighted by nuances of black fruits, cassis, tobacco, and chocolate. The wine has a high concentration of anthocyanins and tannins, as well as a rich colour, structure, weight, and volume on the palate, with a long, pleasant finish.
Nanni Tannat composes 100 per cent organic grapes and exhibits intense fruit aromas combined with complex aromas of tobacco and chocolate. In the mouth it is impacted by ripe, round tannins, making this wine an ideal companion for roasted meats and game.
Coquena Tannat is made from 100 per cent Tannat grapes grown at Finca Tolombón, Calchaqui Valleys in the Cafayate area of the Salta province, by Bodega Yacochuya. On the palate, it appears bright and clear, with an intense colour and violet reflections. The aroma is intense, with a very marked fruity character (plums, cherries) and a hint of spice. The fruity character is repeated on the palate, with good varietal typicity, firm and ripe tannins, good acidity, and a long finish.
San Pedro de Yacochuya (SPY)Tannat – Edicion Limitada, another 100 per cent varietal from Bodega Yacochuya, is a wine with a deep purple-red colour. On the nose, it displays intense aromas of ripe black fruits and subtle notes of spices. On the palate, it is distinguished by its robust structure and marked tannins, which give it a bold and persistent character. This wine offers a balanced and powerful flavour experience, with a vibrant, well-balanced acidity and a beautiful finish.
A closer look at the domestic market in recent years reveals that 3,614 hectolitres (hl) of varietal wines made from Tannat were sold in Argentina with 95.8 per cent being pure varietal wines and 4.2 per cent being blends, according to data from the country’s National Institute of Viticulture. Additionally, since 2014, exports have grown by 55.1 per cent in volume and 48.4 per cent in FOB value with 98 per cent of total Tannat varietal exports consisting of pure varietals, while blended Tannat varietals accounting for just 2 per cent. Brazil remains the leading importer of Argentine Tannat wines, accounting for approximately 31.9 per cent of total exports, followed by Taiwan (15.4 per cent), the United Kingdom, the Netherlands, Mexico, and Canada. In contrast, Colombia and Costa Rica have shown a preference for blended Tannat varietals, with Colombia accounting for a staggering 91.0 per cent of these exports.
Despite its undeniable appeal to wine enthusiasts seeking bold, structured wines, Tannat remains a niche player in the global market. However, the growing interest in lesser-known varietals and the push for greater diversity in wine offerings provide new opportunities for Tannat to carve out a more prominent niche. Additionally, as winemakers refine their techniques to create more approachable styles of Tannat, the grape’s potential for broader appeal continues to grow.
So, next Monday as you commemorate World Tannat Day, celebrate not just a grape, but a legacy, a testament to the resilience of tradition, the power of adaptation, and the enduring allure of a wine that refuses to be overlooked. Whether enjoyed in its structured, age-worthy form or as a more modern, fruit-forward expression, Tannat remains a grape worth discovering, savouring, and toasting to. Salud!
