French Finesse meets Argentine Terroir
Mendoza’s picturesque Uco Valley nestles many a bodega whose vineyards, from which the very best of the country’s viticultural offerings derive, rise up to 1,300 feet above sea level in an area revered for its flagship Malbec red wine variety. Amongst these is Bodega Atamisque, a beacon of innovation and tradition, epitomised by the expertise of its French-trained winemaker, Philippe Caraguel. Combining his meticulous artistry, in producing both still and sparkling wines, with the rich history of a winery committed to sustainable viticulture and cultural preservation, has resulted in a partnership that represents the finest expression of Argentine winemaking with a global influence.
Philippe Caraguel is an oenologist from Mendoza who did a stint with the Chandon subsidiary in Argentina, before gaining a scholarship to France where he read for a master’s in Viticulture and Oenology at the University of Montpellier. He subsequently graduated with the French National Diploma in Oenology then travelled to the Champagne region of France to work at Moët & Chandon, where he would remain for close to two years. It was during this time in France that Caraguel honed his craft in the birthplace of winemaking traditions, before deciding to return home to explore the burgeoning wine industry of Argentina. Caraguel’s decision to relocate to the Uco Valley was transformative and he quickly earned a reputation as one of Mendoza’s premier winemakers. He brought with him the meticulous practices of French winemaking while gaining inspiration from the region’s altitude, diverse soils, and exceptional grape-growing conditions.
Among Caraguel’s many talents, his expertise in crafting sparkling wines sets him apart and led to the creation of his own line of espumantes, made exclusively from Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, which stand out for their depth and elegance, ie, a French “savoir-faire” with an Argentine style. Caraguel’s sparkling wines are celebrated for their finesse, elegance, as well as their complexity and, with high-altitude vineyards providing natural acidity, they achieve a balance of freshness and depth, rivalling some of the best in the world. Bodega Atamisque, founded by Frenchman John Du Monceau, is an estate that reflects the natural beauty of Tupungato in a winery envisioned to be a combination of European sophistication and Argentina’s untamed spirit. The estate’s name, derived from the local shrub “atamisque”, reflects its commitment to preserving the region’s flora and fauna.
Du Monceau enlisted the talents of Philippe Caraguel to helm the winemaking operations and together, they have transformed Atamisque into a premier destination for wine enthusiasts. Bodega Amatisque is spread across 70 hectares of vineyards, producing a range of wines that include the youthful Serbal, the complex Catalpa, and the flagship Atamisque line. In fact, the bodega’s wine portfolio is a reflection of Caraguel’s winemaking philosophy: a marriage of elegance, structure, and a sense of place. Atamisque, an aboriginal shrub that grows naturally in the surroundings of the winery, gave rise to the name of the estate where the winery is located. These are also the bodega’s flagship wines, and include a robust Assemblage blend that embodies the pinnacle of Caraguel’s artistry. The wines in this line are crafted from old-vine grapes, are rich, layered, and built to age.
“Catalpa”, named after the majestic trees surrounding the winery, is a line representing a step up in complexity as the Catalpa Malbec, for instance, which is aged in French oak, is a quintessential expression of Mendoza’s signature varietal. This is the winery’s premium line made from grapes grown in San José, Tupungato at approximately 1,300 metres above sea level, then aged for 12 months in French oak barrels (six months for Chardonnay). “Serbal” or “Lady of the Mountains” are unoaked wines, including a bright Pinot Noir and a refreshing Malbec Rosé that celebrate the purity of fruit. They are approachable yet expressive varietals, showcasing the versatility of the Uco Valley’s terroir and are young, fruity wines made with grapes from their own vineyards.
As the Christmas countdown begins, Thursday Food explores Philippe Caraguel’s eponymous label and a few of Bodega Amatisque’s standout varietals:
Philippe Caraguel Extra Brut, yellow in colour with golden highlights, is captivating on the nose with its balance of white fruits, notes of honey and toast. Fine bubbles form a persistent pearl necklace while on the palate it presents a sensation of creaminess with a delicate mousse, in a long and unctuous finish.
Philippe Caraguel Extra Brut Rosé is elegant, complex and extravagant with its delicate pink colour, fine bubbles and scent of roses and raspberries. It also expresses aromatic notes of brioche and caramel that blend in perfect harmony with a palate that is unctuous and delicate with a radiant and creamy mousse.
Philippe Caraguel Grand Cuveé Extra Brut is an elegant yet complex wine that is yellow with golden reflections with aromas of toasted bread mixed with honey and white fruits, not dissimilar to the extra brut version of this label. In the mouth it presents a sensation of creaminess with a delicate mousse, as well as a long and unctuous finish.
Atamisque Chardonnay is a 100 per cent Chardonnay, made with grapes from a single, private vineyard located in Tupungato, Uco Valley. 100 per cent of the wine is fermented and aged in new French oak barrels for 10 to 12 months and it has scored 92 points in the
Descorchados wine rankings.
Catalpa Assemblage is a red blend that comprises 35 per cent Cabernet Franc, 35 per cent Merlot, 15 per cent Malbec and 15 per cent Cabernet Sauvignon. This wine, which spent 12 months in 100 per cent French oak barrels before ageing for 12 months in bottles, has the potential to improve or maintain quality when stored under proper conditions over for up to eight years.
Rowan Malbec Rosé, which forms part of the Serbal line, is a pale ruby red coloured wine with notes of cherry on the nose. This 100 per cent varietal is unctuous, lively and fresh in the mouth and is made with grapes from vineyards located in San José, Tupungato, Mendoza at 1,300 metres above sea level.
As Bodega Atamisque continues to garner international acclaim, Philippe Caraguel remains focused on pushing the boundaries of what Argentine wine can achieve. Together, they have redefined Argentine winemaking, proving that the fusion of French finesse and Argentine terroir can yield extraordinary results. Salud!