Summer Whites and The Caesar’s 100th
The Caesar salad, a ubiquitous staple of American cuisine, has a fascinating history that stretches back a century, with its creation a tale that encompasses a unique blend of improvisation, culinary innovation, and the vibrant cultural milieu of the early 20th century. The Caesar salad was created in 1924 by Caesar Cardini, an Italian-American restaurateur, born in the Italian region of Lombardy in 1896, who emigrated to the United States after World War I. After settling in San Diego, California, where he operated a successful restaurant, prohibition laws in the United States banned the sale of alcoholic beverages leading many Americans to seek a good time south of the border. Cardini seized this opportunity and went on to open a restaurant in Tijuana, Mexico, just across the border.
The exact circumstances of the Caesar salad’s creation are often contested, with various stories adding to its mystique, but, the most widely accepted version suggests that the salad was born out of necessity on a busy Fourth of July weekend in 1924. It is thought that Cardini’s Mexican eatery was bustling with American tourists during the very busy independence holiday weekend and, with kitchen supplies running low as patrons continued to stream in, he needed a solution. The restaurateur decided to improvise with the ingredients he had on hand: romaine lettuce, olive oil, raw eggs, croutons, Parmesan cheese, Worcestershire sauce, garlic, and lemon juice, all combined to create the first-ever Caesar salad in Tijuana, Mexico.
By the 1930s, the Caesar salad had made its way to the United States, thanks in part to the Hollywood set, as Tijuana was a popular destination for celebrities looking to escape the restrictions of prohibition laws. Many would end up dining at Cardini’s restaurant and eventually, stars like Clark Gable and Jean Harlow would help to popularise the salad by praising it to their friends and colleagues. The salad’s reputation was further bolstered by Julia Child, the renowned American chef and television personality who in her memoirs, recounted visiting Cardini’s restaurant with her parents in the 1920s and experiencing the Caesar salad first-hand. Her endorsement added another layer of legitimacy to the dish thus cementing its place in American culinary culture.
Throughout the mid-20th century, the Caesar salad became a fixture on menus across the United States with its growth in popularity spreading to Europe and beyond, thanks in part to the rise of international travel and the global reach of American culture. The salad’s simple yet sophisticated combination of flavours appealed to a broad audience, and its versatility allowed chefs to experiment with various additions and modifications. The Caesar’s ever-increasing popularity saw chefs and home cooks alike beginning to experiment with the original recipe, leading to a variety of adaptations and innovations, with one of the most common variations being the addition of grilled chicken, making it a more substantial meal. Other proteins, such as shrimp, salmon, and steak, have also been incorporated to create heartier versions of the dish.
The Caesar salad’s journey from a small Mexican restaurant to a global culinary icon is a testament to its enduring appeal, as it features in numerous cookbooks, television shows, and films, further embedding it in popular culture. Its presence on menus ranging from casual eateries to fine dining establishments highlights its versatility and widespread acceptance. In fact, in the realm of film and television, the Caesar salad has often been used as a symbol of sophistication and cosmopolitan taste, a portrayal which reinforces the salad’s association with quality and elegance.
In celebration of the Caesar salad’s 100th anniversary, Thursday Food perfectly pairs this beloved global favourite with five award-winning wines that are but a few of the best summer whites, from Argentina:
Graffigna Genuine Collection Pinot Grigio 2023 is a 100 per cent varietal produced by Graffigna Wines, considered the oldest winery in San Juan and one of Argentina’s most historic bodegas since 1870. This wine, which earned a bronze medal and scored 88 points at the 2024 Decanter World Wine Awards (DWWA), is a soft yellow colour with some greenish reflections. It is appealing on the nose with bright stone fruit aromas, floral nuances and a touch of gooseberry. On the palate, it is fresh, citrusy and rich with a pleasant, crisp, well-balanced finish.
Viña Doña Paula, Single Vineyard Alluvia Sauvignon Blanc 2023 is produced from vineyards at Finca Alluvia in Gualtallary, Tupungato, located at 1,350 metres above sea level. The wine has a vegetal character, with notes of asparagus, green apple, pear and citrus fruit. In the mouth it is harmonious and refreshing with a very long finish. This 100 per cent Sauvignon Blanc also earned a bronze medal at the 2024 DWWA with a score of 87 points.
Caminante De Los Mundos Organic Pinot Grigio 2023 is a 100 per cent varietal produced from vineyards in Tupungato that scored 92 points and earned a silver medal at the 2024 DWWA. It has a clear, soft golden colour with bright reflections, expressing aromas that are fresh and floral along with tropical notes that exhibit a fruity profile of peaches and apricots. On the palate it is very fresh on entry, giving a full and sustained mouthfeel with very good acidity as well as a nice aromatic persistence with a marked structure. You can also perceive flavours of fruits such as pears and apples due to its present tannins.
Bodega Norton Lote Blanco Grüner Veltliner is a wine that expresses a lifted herbaceous character on the nose, with touches of petrol and citrus fruit. In the mouth, it has a creamy texture, with pulsating acidity that expresses a vibrant style. Produced by Bodega Norton, the first and only Argentine winery to produce Grüner Veltliner, an exclusive Austrian white grape variety, this 100 per cent varietal with its pale yellow appearance scored 92 points and earned a silver medal at the 2024 DWWA.
Sur Andino Argentina Altaluvia Riesling is a 100 per cent Riesling made at Viña Doña Paula in Gualtallary, Tupungato, Mendoza. This gold medal-winning label, which scored 95 points at the 2024 DWWA, is restless as it is versatile, displaying the typical minerality of the calcareous soils of Gualtallary with descriptors such as chalk. It has sharp and long tannins on the palate, with an elegant texture in addition to a truly delightful wealth of lime curd, blossom and honeyed white fruit bathed in a cleansing mineral freshness which steers toward the sizzling sea salt finish.
The Caesar salad’s journey from Caesar Cardini’s Tijuana restaurant to tables around the world is a remarkable story of culinary innovation and cultural diffusion. As we celebrate the Caesar salad’s centennial in 2024, we also celebrate the creativity and resilience of the human spirit. Salud!