Argentinian Wines From Patagonia
With a vast geographical region covering approximately twice the size of California, Patagonia is South America’s southernmost wine-producing region. This desert territory, with its cool, dry climate, spanning the south of Argentina and Chile, has proven itself well-suited to producing elegant reds including Pinot Noir and Malbec. Patagonia’s viticultural zone stretches 300 kilometres (200 miles) along the Neuquen and Rio Negro rivers, from Anelo in the west to Choele Choel in the east. Despite being closer to the Andes Mountains than to the Atlantic Ocean, this wine region is at a much lower altitude than its northern cousin, Mendoza, averaging about 300m (1,000 ft) above sea level. With meltwater from the Andes mountain range in abundance for irrigation, the region’s viticulture is possible only near the rivers.
Patagonia has gained recognition within the wine world due to the two viticultural regions located in its northern section: the more-established Rio Negro and the newer, still developing Neuquen. Wines from these two zones are traditionally more European in style than those from the central and northern regions of Argentina, as a result of the areas’ cooler climate and higher latitude. While Malbec still plays a central role in Patagonian wine, it is Pinot Noir that has become the region’s iconic grape variety. Excellent white wines made from Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Riesling also showcase the freshness of the region’s climate. The classic desert climate of warm days and cold nights extends the growing season in the region, slowing ripening the grapes and letting them develop rich varietal character while retaining acidity.
The area was often overlooked as a suitable territory for the country’s viticulture industry largely due to these conditions, which did not appear well-suited for the successful cultivation of vines. Over time, however, the decision by a few bodegas to begin exploring wine production in the zone has led to Patagonian wineries becoming internationally acclaimed. The climatic conditions favour greater colour concentration in the red varieties, and the development of thicker skins in the grapes. Additionally, great thermal amplitude, derived from the combination of latitude and low altitude, along with the abundant hours of sun, are added to scarce rainfall and the strong winds that exert their influence on the crops, contributing to the health of the grapes.
Varieties which excel in the cold of the area reach their maximum expression in the regions of Patagonia. The Merlot stands out for wines with a mild, balanced flavour and aromatic intensity. Pinot Noir is used for most of the sparkling wines, and achieves outstanding elegance as well. Although Malbec is the most cultivated variety, whites are also making their mark in a strong way. Superior quality wines are produced from Sauvignon Blanc, when vigour is controlled and the grapes are harvested at full maturity, while the Chardonnay acquires a harmonious, fruity aroma with a good body.
The Patagonian province of Río Negro, accepted as the birthplace of winemaking in the south of that region, boasts terroirs containing decades-old vineyards and unusual grape varieties. Bariloche, the largest city in the province, is known as the ‘Switzerland of Argentina’ due to the cultural influence of its European settlers, and is revered for skiing and chocolate. Wine production began in Río Negro at the end of the 19th century, with the development of irrigation channels that made use of the snowmelt from the Andes mountains which swell the river from which the province gets its name. Alto Valle de Río Negro was the first wine region of Patagonia and one of the engineers in charge of the works that transformed the area, Humberto Canale, founded a winery in the city of General Roca in 1909.
Numerous producers have, since then, followed in Canale’s footsteps, importing French vines for their vineyards. Railways would then be used to transport the first wines from Patagonia to Buenos Aires resulting in the surface area of the region under vine cultivation, expanding even further. Over time, this has given rise to a wine region that is formidable in its own right, producing varietals that taste vastly different from those made in Mendoza. Today, Thursday Food shares some insight on the wines from Patagonia that offer the purest expressions of its unique terroir, by introducing a few of the best varietals produced in the region:
Fin del Mundo Extra Brut, a sparkling wine produced by Bodega Fin del Mundo, comprises 80 per cent Pinot Noir and 20 per cent Chardonnay. Brilliant in colour, with copper flashes, it presents some bubbles that reflect in a persistent crown. Aromas are of white flowers, citrus, along with delicate notes of toasted bread. On the palate it is refreshing with a creamy sensation and a long finish, having acidity that represents the typicality of the Patagonian sparkling wines.
Fin del Mundo Brut Nature is also produced by Bodega Fin del Mundo and is made up of 100 per cent Pinot Noir grapes, using the Champenoise method. Golden yellow in colour with copper reflections, it has intense, complex aromas that feature hints of toasted bread, candy and nuts, along with delicate, red fruity notes. On the palate it is friendly, creamy, smooth and has small bubbles that highlight the toasted notes resulting in a finish in the mouth that is long and delicate.
Alpataco Chardonnay, a 100 per cent Chardonnay produced by Bodega Familia Schroeder, is distinguished by its striking greenish-yellow colour. Elegant on the nose, citrus aromas are combined with that of tropical fruits and floral notes. Its short oak aging provides a sumptuous touch of vanilla and white chocolate. On the palate it has a very good entry, it is fruity, fresh, with good acidity and is well-balanced.
Saurus Pinot Noir Rosé, also made by Bodega Familia Schroeder, comprises 100 per cent Pinot Noir. It has a pale pink color with delicate salmon tones and is a delicious wine of delicate floral aromas like rose petals, jasmine and orange blossoms. Fresh, fruity and balanced with mouth-watering acidity, It is a Provence-style wine, with a profile that expresses softness and freshness. On the palate it is fresh, fruity in the mouth with good acidity and is well-balanced.
Patagonia has managed to position itself as a region of Argentina where the quality of its wines is its major attribute. Its climatic conditions guarantee the health of the vineyards and an excellent quality of grapes which in turn result in wines that are intense in both colour and aroma. The region produces expressive wines with a great personality that includes a very striking colour, fruity and intense aromas along with great acidity. The combination of these features has gradually allowed Patagonia an opportunity to achieve recognition locally and internationally.