Commemorating World Champagne Day
While every bottle of Champagne is a sparkling wine, not every bottle of sparkling wine is a Champagne. It’s the world’s most notable sparkling wine, however; only wine produced specifically in the Champagne region of France, from grapes grown in the same region, can be called Champagne. Ahead of tomorrow’s 2022 global commemoration of Champagne Day, we wanted to explore the very best of Argentina’s sparkling variety, which was first bottled commercially in 1902. Though sparkling wines are made using either the Charmat method or the classic (Champenoise) method, the name varies in different countries and areas outside of the Champagne region. Known as Espumante in Argentina (and Portugal), wines made using the traditional or modern methods are also known as: Cava (or Espumoso) in Spain, Prosecco in Italy, Cremant in France (once produced outside of the Champagne region) and Sekt in Germany & Austria.
Traditionally, Champagne was made using primarily the Champenoise method which allowed for a natural fermentation of the grapes but proved very costly, time-consuming and labour-intensive. With this method, bubbles in the wine are produced in the second fermentation of the wine in the bottle; however, with the less expensive, time-efficient Charmat method, this is done in steel tanks. The production of Espumante grew slowly as local producers tried to emulate their French counterparts while wooing a demanding local market that preferred imported Champagne. This all changed beginning in 1959 when Moët & Chandon selected Mendoza as the location for its first overseas subsidiary and over the decades has led to increased production of sparkling wines in the country. Back in 2005, there were only 59 producers making Espumante but today, there are approximately 165 wineries that make sparkling wine in Argentina, mostly in Mendoza, but also in Neuquén, Rio Negro, San Juan and Chubut.
The growth of Espumante production in Argentina is also reflected in the domestic consumption of the variety which has risen since the 1980s, with most wineries selling 80 per cent of their wines in the country with the remaining 20 per cent being exported to over 16 international territories. “Espumantes Argentinos” have, since their beginning over 100 years ago, increased in consumption per capita, from 18 litres to 21 liters largely due to their quality. Wineries consistently allocate their best base wines to their Champenoise method and the country’s best exponents today are made with high-altitude Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes. It is in these conditions that both grapes, the most recognised in the world for this type of wine, achieve a definition of fruit whilst maintaining a high degree of natural acidity. Today there are many award-winning Argentine wines of the sparkling variety that allow consumers with the most discerning of palates the opportunity to enjoy a great Espumante, absent any yearning for its French counterpart. Thursday Food introduces you to five of the best sparklers from the home of Malbec:
Otronia Espumante 2018 is a 94-point 100 per cent organic Chardonnay variety that is produced using the traditional method by Bodega Otronia in Patagonia. The wine was aged for 25 months and has a soft pale yellow colour, presenting aromas of toasted bread, fruits such as white peach, citrus alongside herbal and floral notes. On the palate, the soft bubbles provide a balanced, textured elegance, complemented by great acidity and a delicate sensation of unctuousness.
Alma 4 Pinot Chardonnay 2018, which comprises 70 per cent Pinot Noir and 30 per cent Chardonnay, is the most classic of the Alma 4 range of sparkling wines by Sebastian Zuccardi of Bodega Zuccardi. This 93-point blend, aged for 20 months in the classic method of second fermentation in the bottle, has a yellow colour with a delicate coppery tint and steady bubbles. The wine expresses aromas of red fruit, pear, apple, dried fruit, toasted bread along with the elegant aroma of yeast. In the mouth, it is balanced with good structure and features stand out flavors of butter and toast with a luxuriously persistent finish.
Progenie II Brut Nature is the top Espumante from Bodega Vistalba and is made up of 60 per cent Pinot Noir and 40 per cent Chardonnay grapes from its vineyards located in Mendoza. Produced using the Champenoise method, this 93-point blend has a constant release of bubbles, coppery hues as well as a compact and persistent foam when poured. On the nose, notes of white flowers and dried fruits are perceived while in the mouth, it has a well-marked acidity, making it vibrant and refreshing with hints of dried apricot.
Bressia Royale Brut Nature 2020 is a 93-point Espumante from Bodega Bressia, that stands out among Argentine sparkling wines for its delicate craftsmanship which follows traditional methodology. To the eyes, this wine which is aged two years, comprising 50 per cent Pinot Noir and 50 per cent Chardonnay, presents a golden tone of medium intensity with very fine bubbles. On the nose, it expresses aromas of delicate citrus and tropical fruit with good intensity, along with a marked presence of toasted and dry bread. On the palate it is splendid, fresh, elegant and traditional, all at the same time, with good structure and a persistent finish.
Estancia Uspallata Brut Nature is made of 100 per cent Pinot Noir and produced from vineyards planted at 2,000 metres above sea level in Lujan De Cuyo, the highest in Mendoza. On the palate it is vibrant, electric, fresh and spicy with incredible acidity, expressing notes of green apple. It is pearly yellow in colour with fine visible bubbles, featuring intense aromas of candied cherries along with hints of white flowers, traces of fresh yeast, honey and citrus. This 93-point Espumante, made using the Champenoise method, was aged for 14 months and, though very young, has good complexity.
Champagne is synonymous with elegance, celebrations and gatherings so, tomorrow, be sure to get a bottle of your favourite Espumante and share a toast with your friends or colleagues or families as the world celebrates this bubbly variety. Salud!