Planting a tiny seed and watching it grow into food is one of life’s small miracles.

Setting the seeds

Now that we have the garden beds laid out and the compost is cooking, it is time to set the seeds. Give your seedlings the best possible start by setting them out under a covered area. Sunlight is essential, but some shade is good as the tiny seedlings will burn very easily. Use seeding trays or repurpose used aluminum trays or egg cartons or my favourite, small biodegradable pots which can be planted directly into the ground. This minimises damage to the roots and gives the tiny seedlings a better chance of survival, especially in hot summer months. To minimise pests and disease, wash used seeding trays in soap and water before filling with a mix of 70% soil and 30% of that lovely compost you’ve made.

Once the trays are filled with soil, just make an indentation in the soil with your finger or a stick. Place the seed in and sift a little soil over the top of smaller seeds, like lettuce and callaloo. For larger seeds make a slightly deeper hole, just deep enough to cover the seed well. It is tempting to set too many seeds; however, just set one or two per hole. Densely set seedlings end up weak as they compete for light and air. Label each tray with the variety set. Water once or twice a day; be careful not to overwater, but they shouldn’t dry out either.

When the seedlings are about 2” high, give them a nutrient booster – a brew of compost tea. Mix 2-3 cups of finished compost in a gallon of water. Let the mixture sit for 48 hours to infuse. Strain and spray the seedlings once a week.

Getting down and dirty

Most seedlings will be ready for transplant in 3 to 4 weeks. Remember the little garden plan we suggested in the first article. This is where it comes in handy. Plants have best friends, so before planting out, it is good to know which ones do well together! Plants that complement each other can help deter pests away from your main crop. Good companions take different nutrients from the soil so they thrive in each other’s company. Taller plants provide shade for lower-growing ones and companion planting ensures diversity.

A good example of this is the ‘three sisters’ method used by the American Indians. They planted corn, beans, and squash together. The squash provided a ground cover and protection for the soil and kept weeds to a minimum, the beans added nitrogen to the soil, and the corn provided a structure for the beans to run on. They sometimes added sunflowers or bee-­balm or other flowers and herbs which would provide food for birds that would otherwise eat the corn. If done correctly, companion planting can keep weeds and pests from the garden, encourage beneficial insects and pollinators (more on that next week), resulting in less need for pesticides, a win-­win for clean food and protection for the environment. A few good companions are carrots with beans and tomatoes, cabbage likes beets, celery and lettuce. It is worth consulting a companion chart before planting.

Once you finalise your garden plan, fork your beds over, pull out any grass weeds, refine the soil and add compost liberally; you cannot add to much compost. Incorporate the compost into the soil and distribute it evenly throughout the beds, adding a little more compost to each planting hole. Give each plant enough space so air will circulate freely to keep them free from disease. Position trellises for climbing vegetables or utilise fences and walls.

Once the seedlings are in, a light watering will settle the roots. Check the soil and water as needed. Root vegetable like carrots, beets, radishes, and larger vegetable seeds like cucumbers, pumpkins can be seeded directly into the ground.

Mulch! Mulch! Mulch!

Mulching is a must to maintain a healthy garden. Using dried grass leaves and other natural material act as a protective cover for the soil’s nutrients. As mulch breaks down into humus, it aids in soil fertility, and helps to improve the structure and texture. Mulching conserves moisture which saves water, protects plants in hot weather and minimises soil erosion. It will also keep weeds down and reduce the need for tillage. Less work for you!

Container planting

Two things to consider when planting in containers; one, make sure the soil mix is a consistency that will not dry out too fast and that the containers have proper drainage so the plants will not get waterlogged. Place the pots in position before planting and raise them off the ground. Create adequate drainage holes and place a layer of stones or broken clay at the bottom of each pot. Some plants like tomatoes and beans will need support.

Place the trellis in the pot before planting the seedlings to avoid damage to the roots. Use a 70% soil to 30 % compost and add a little coir into the mix. Fill the container two-thirds with potting mix, make slight indentations and carefully place your seedlings, remembering to give them adequate space to mature. Once the plants are positioned, fill in around with more potting mix. Cover the soil with mulch to keep the soil from drying out. A light watering will help them get settled. Check the moisture level of the soil especially on hot days.

Patience and rest

When the beds are planted, take it easy. Sit on your garden bench and dream about all the nourishing, delicious vegetables for your table. Next week we will round up the series with more tips on managing and reaping from your organic kitchen garden.

Grow. Gather. Cook. Create. Eat.