View from the top — Old Spanish Bridge
If your road trip destination is difficult to find even with a driver who has been there before and Google Maps insists you should make a left when there’s nothing but a 50-foot drop into a riverbed, then you know it’s worth the drive!
A planned trip to the south of the island turned into a last-minute switch to the much-Instagrammed Old Spanish Bridge on the border of St Mary and St Ann, which was nothing short of extraordinary.
The approximately two-hour trip (our lead navigator drove the ‘scenic’ route via Junction in St Mary) took us off the beautifully paved roads of the north coast and onto torturous single-vehicle dirt paths. We would later find out that there was another route through nearby Exchange in St Ann that was half the hassle and none of the dread.
As a location note, if you’re coming from Ocho Rios, make the right at the stoplight just past the Texaco onto Exchange Road and proceed through the communities of Eltham, Exchange, Cascade and Newstead to get to the narrowing pathway that leads to the bridge. Don’t be afraid to ask residents for directions as you will constantly feel like you’re headed the wrong way and there is a good chance you are.
Once there, the beauty of Old Spanish Bridge, reportedly built in the 17th century by the island’s then colonisers, is near indescribable.
The historic bridge is set against the backdrop of undergrowth surrounding the aquamarine White River, which placidly pools before continuing its route downhill. An open expanse of land by the river serves as an improvised lot for parking, barbecues and sunbathers.
Music permeated the area from under a covered tent where a seated disc jock, we assumed was a local, played hit songs from the 90s and early 2000s from a MacBook.
When we arrived around 11:30 am, there was already a fair-sized crowd of residents and visitors, who were clearly repeat guests as they knew that it would likely only get more packed as the day progressed.
The approximately 40 or so people present were engrossed by friendly conversations or enjoying the chilly water, which becomes deceptively deep at points reserved for those diving and the more proficient swimmers.
Occasionally, a group of tourists from one of the nearby attractions would go by in tubes, waterproof cameras in hand, captivated by the natural beauty of the area.
Not to be outdone by the established companies taking advantage of the lush scene, the locals also provide tubes and life vests for visitors. From my understanding, they weren’t for rent per se, but most users were inclined to leave a tip for whoever assisted them. I highly recommend asking for Shango who we found to be more attentive than most waiters at some fine-dining restaurants.
Rope swinging from the bridge was an understandable draw for the more adventurous who were not content to dive from a 15-foot platform into the blue unknown. It’s not for the faint of heart and don’t let the children, barely old enough to take PEP exams, swinging from a good 40 feet above the river fool you into thinking so. But, if you dare, it’s an absolutely exhilarating experience for the thrill seekers among us. Of all the experiences one can have in Jamaica, this certainly ranks up there with the very best (and cheapest), for its unspoiled charm and beauty.