Ahead of the big, bad party SO offers a primer for the uninitiated.

What is the historical reference for Carnival?

Trinidad’s Carnival dates back to the 18th century when French Catholic planters arrived with slaves and free blacks. White and free coloured planters would stage elaborate masquerade balls at Christmas, and before Lent to say “farewell to the flesh”. Meanwhile, the slaves and free coloureds held their version of this masking tradition during harvesting festivities when they burned the sugar cane, known as cannes bruleés (pronounced canboulay in English). Over the centuries, these rich traditions have melded and evolved into what we experience.

What’s the first thing to do after touching down in Port of Spain?

This depends on if you are a drinker. Then you want to stock up on duty-free liquor as you leave Immigration in the airport. This is the fuel that takes many a weary body through to Carnival Tuesday, so load up on the Vat 19, T&T’s special dark rum, or the much-acclaimed 1919.

For the foodie, as you exit the airport terminal, head to the food court where you can get your first sample of the spicy flavours for which this country is renowned. When you get to the doubles vendor, you may notice your Caribbean Airlines pilot has beaten you to the line. Doubles are the crème de la crème of Trini street food. Curried chickpeas served on two pieces of soft dough and topped with grated cucumber, mango kutchela, pepper sauce and sweet tamarind sauce will have you licking your fingers. It may take some practice to get the hang of eating this hottie (it’s usually served piping hot) standing up, but “tek time” — and ask for lots of napkins. If you are heading west, stop off in Curepe where “De Original Sauce” doubles can be found. The title for the best doubles is hotly contested, and places like Lopinot, Debe, Penal and Chaguanas are veritable doubles paradises, with vendors vying to create the most awesome pepper sauce or tastiest chickpeas.

How do I manage the week of fetes? Which fetes should I not miss?

There’s a fete (party) to suit every age group and budget at Carnival. For the glam all-inclusive experience, try one put on by a prestige school. These Catholic schools sure do know how to throw a good fete! Fete with the Saints, Fatima All-Inclusive, Old Hilarians (Bishop’s) and Presentation College PREStige fetes top the list for go-to parties for the jet set. The latest trend in Trini partydom is the breakfast fete. AM Bush, Soaka, Black to Blue and Jam Nation are popular, while Carnival Sunday morning will see you torn between Breakfast Is and Vale Vibe (both all-inclusive).

During Carnival week itself you will catch the in-crowd at Hyatt Lime, Beach House, Soca Brainwash or Fall Out. The younger crews tend to like Bacchanal Road, a Caesar’s Army fete where costumes are worn, and you parade around a route.

And then there are the concerts. The ones not to miss: Machel Monday and Tuesday on the Rocks (with Kes the Band).

On “Fantastic Friday”, in the wee hours of the morning, be sure to go into Port of Spain to witness the re-enactment of the Canboulay Riots of 1881, which depict the struggle to keep Carnival alive. Be sure to rest during the day because you don’t want to miss a second of the International Soca Monarch competition, where all the top soca artistes contend for big prize money.

Carnival Saturday is when the children ‘play mas’ at Kiddies Carnival, a beautiful showcase of enchanting costumes where you can appreciate the complexity and skill of Trinidad’s wire benders and designers.

The most spectacular handmade creations you may ever see in life are the Carnival Kings and Queens of the Bands at the Dimanche Gras show in the Queen’s Park Savannah on Sunday night. This competition showcases the most amazing, giant costumes depicting all sorts of wondrous concepts. Also part of the show is the Calypso Monarch competition when the best social commentaries for the season vie for the much-coveted title.

What’s my strategy for Road March?

Pace yourself. Don’t follow the Trinis – they been doing this since birth. Dance to every other song. Remember, you have many miles to go. Stay hydrated. That sun is a killer. If you are in an all-inclusive band, don’t stray too far from the drinks truck. It’s best to have a phone armband so your hands are free for holding on to waists and drinks. Try to stay with your section of the band. Yes, you will see hotties in other sections, but many a man has lost his way on Carnival day chasing bumpers.

What songs must I know?

Tipsy (Black Shadow, Rupee), Cuckus Bag (Lavaman), Berlin (Orlando Octave), Gyal Owna (Blacks), No Habla (Erphaan Alves), Work 4 It (Patrice Roberts), Hookin’ Meh (Farmer Nappy), Dah Wuk (Kes), Iron Love (Nailah Blackman) Toco Loco (Machel Montano) Famalay (Skinny Fabulous, Bunji Garlin and Machel Montano).

And in a twist that could only happen in Trinidad, Machel Montano’s Flying High, the Caribbean Airlines signature song, is also a big fete hit.

Tell me about the steel pan.

The only acoustic, non-electric instrument invented in the 20th century, the steel pan has evolved from its origins in the poor urban community of Laventille to become a revered instrument globally, with full orchestra of 100-plus players producing all genres of music. Carnival Saturday night is reserved for Panorama finals, one of the major highlights of the season, when the very best steel bands in the country set the Queen’s Park Savannah on fire with their selections. The best place to be is on the track where the bands run through their final practice before hitting the big stage.

Listening to a steel orchestra on the Panorama stage is one of the most sublime and scintillating experiences you will ever have. Most bands are community-based, and the panyards are the perfect hangout to meet and greet Trini people.

What is the hot restaurant?

Ironically, it’s called Chaud (French for hot).

What should I take back as a memento?

Chocolate. Yes, chocolate. Not what usually comes to mind when you think of sweet T&T, yes, some of the best cocoa in the world comes from Trinidad and Tobago, but few know it because it’s usually bought right away by European chocolatiers. Now, locals are making handmade truffles. San Antonio Estate in Gran Couva, central Trinidad, is one of the island’s oldest plantations, where the famous Trinitario beans are grown. To see and sample some of the rarest and most aromatic beans on the planet take a tour of the estate. Call 1-868-679-9515 or email rdeverteuil@gmail.com.

How do I recover?

Of course, the only way to cool down after Carnival is with another party – we recommend Candy Coated’s Wine Down on Ash Wednesday at Canoe Bay in Tobago.