A crown Jewel
Had life dealt Ravi Anne a different hand, he could have been in a plane’s cockpit. However, the airline industry’s loss has been our culinary biz’s gain, as today he’s the executive chef of The Jewel Dunn’s River Resort and Spa. “I wanted to be a pilot, but my dad couldn’t afford it because in those days, aviation schools in India were expensive and I would have had to go to the States and do it,” admits the Indian-born-turned-naturalised-Jamaican. We’re chatting beachside at the all-inclusive St Ann hotel, just ahead of the chef overseeing the final touches in the kitchen for dinnertime service.
With aviation dreams dashed, Ravi Anne tells Thursday Food that Plan B saw him cultivating an interest in food as one of his aunts was, in fact, one of the first female chefs in India. “I developed a culinary passion for how kitchens looked. I remember going into the kitchen at a five-star hotel for the first time and being wowed by the stainless steel of the whole place and how things were being done. When I saw it, it felt like more an organised plan of work than the house kitchen where my mom cooks. That’s where the fascination began because I wondered, ‘Why is this so different?'” In short order, Ravi Anne enrolled in a three-year apprenticeship programme working in his native India’s Taj hotel chain and was selected as a corporate management trainee to work in Bombay. “After that stint I was chosen to work on the Royal Caribbean Cruise Line as a culinary development specialist and when that finished, I wanted to travel. I started to work in Johnson & Wales with the help of Professor Mark Moyel, who actually mentored me, but I didn’t like the States that much. It’s everybody’s American dream but for some reason I didn’t like it,” the chef shares. “So, I travelled to Mexico and the Dominican Republic to work with the Riu chain, and then I came to Jamaica for the opening of the Riu hotel here. Afterwards my journey continued to Jamaica Grande Sunset Resorts and then Half Moon Hotel at the Sugar Mill restaurant, and now I’ve been at Jewel resort for the past two years.”
At The Jewel, Chef Ravi’s culinary outlook is straightforward: “We focus on the modern intrepretation of Jamaican cuisine.” In doing this, the executive chef deconstructs staple Jamaican dishes and re-imagines them as gourmet fare. “The ingredients and flavours [of Jamaican food] are so good but foreigners don’t understand sometimes when we say curry goat or oxtail. They will definitely understand if you debone the oxtail and sautée it with the pasta, or, instead of the traditional lasagna, we present jerk conch lasagna.” The chef is serious about elevating expectations of what both Jamaican and Caribbean cuisine can be. A colourful, minimalist artistry defines his food presentations and true to his word, there is no compromise in the distinctive island flavour that comes alive on the tastebuds.
As kitchen duties beckon, Ravi Anne tells us he’s looking to make the leap from executive to master chef some day. “My personal goal is to become a certified master chef. I am already a certified executive chef for the last eight years. It’s a long road to being a master chef, as you have to work with one for a couple of years, but I will. After I get my title, my goal is to come back to Jamaica and open a small culinary school.” Given his can-do spirit, we have no doubt Ravi Anne’s aims are very much within his reach.
In the first of our two-part feature on The Jewel Dunn’s River Resort and Spa, Thursday Food showcases menu items from the hotel’s Platinum gourmet restaurant, and shares recipes.
Watermelon,Pineapple & KiwiCube, RoastedPlantain and GoatCheese Cream
Ingredients:
1/2 lb watermelon
1/2 lb pineapple
1/2 lb cantaloupe
Method:
Cut all the fruits into Batonnet shape
and arrange in to a Rubik’s Cube
shape based on the colour contrast.
For Sauce — Ingredients:
1 plantain
v3 oz fennel root
2 oz escallion
1/2 oz thyme
3 oz heavy cream
2 oz goat cheese
3 tbs honey
Method:
Roast the plantain along with fennel
root and scallion, remove and blend
with vegetable stock and heavy cream.
Strain and bring the mixture to boil in
saucepan, add chopped fresh thyme,
goat cheese and honey.
Simmer and serve warm with fruit cube.
(Serves 4)
Ackee, Lobster & Spicy Passion Fruit Crème Brûlée
Ingredients:
1 oz olive oil
1 oz butter
2 oz chopped onion
1/2 oz garlic
1/2 oz ginger
2 oz medium diced tomato
1 oz finely chopped escallion
1/4 oz fresh thyme
1/2 tsp Scotch bonnet pepper
1/2 lb fresh boiled ackee
1/2 lb de-shelled and poached
lobster
1/4 tsp cardamum spice
1/4 tsp nutmeg spice
2 oz passsion fruit purée
4 oz heavy cream
Salt and pepper
2 oz grated mozzarella cheese
1tbs brown sugar
Method:
Heat olive oil along with butter and
sauté onion until golden brown.
Add garlic, ginger, diced tomato,
fresh thyme, scallion and sauté well.
Add Scotch bonnet pepper, boiled
ackee, lobster, cardamum and nutmeg
spice and sauté on a low heat until all
the ingredients blend together well.
Finish off with passion fruit purée,
heavy cream and mozzarella cheese.
Season to taste.
Transfer the mixture into the
roasted lobster shell and present it
according to your desire.
Before serving, sprinkle brown sugar
and using a blow torch or gratiné it to
give a golden brown colour.
(Serves four)
Curried Conch Cigars,Sweetsop & Mint Cocktail Sauce
Ingredients:
1 oz olive oil
1 oz butter
2 oz chopped onion
1/2 oz garlic
1/2 oz ginger
1/2 tsp curry powder
1 oz finely chopped escallion
1/4 oz fresh thyme
1/2 tsp Scotch bonnet pepper
1 oz sweet pepper
Salt and pepper to taste
4 each spring roll sheet
1 lb cracked and minced conch
2 oz caramel colour
Vegetable oil for frying
Method:
Heat olive oil along with butter and sauté onion
until golden brown.
Add garlic, ginger, diced tomato, fresh thyme,
scallion and sauté well.
Add Scotch bonnet pepper, curry powder and
sauté until the curry is cooked.
Add the minced conch and sauté well until all
the ingredients blend well.
Roll the spring roll sheet with the mixture into a
cigar shape.
Shallow deep fry till golden brown, remove and
let it rest for a few minutes on a parchment
paper till the oil is drained.
Use caramel colour and give it a nice coat for a
black colour finish.
For the sauce
Ingredients:
4 sweetsops, each deseeded and blended
3 oz fresh mint, chopped and blended
1/4 tbs shrimp base
1/4 tsp mint liquor
Method:
Mix all the ingredients in a sauce pan and bring
to boil, season to taste.
(Serves four)
Presentation
Use a Champagne flute or a container of your
choice, pour the sauce in the bottom of the
flute and place the cigar in the flute dipped in
the sauce.
Garnish the glass with a lime wedge.