I could still hear the roar of the engines of Formula One cars in my head as our alarms went off at 4:00 am signalling departure time from Valencia, Spain. Our crew had two different destinations; one family had to get to the airport in Madrid to catch a flight to their home in Geneva, Switzerland, my crew had to drive six hours to the very quaint town of Peñafiel to visit the historic Bodegas Protos.

When most people think of Spanish wines, they think of Rioja; however, Spain has a lot more to offer and one of the other regions to consider is Ribera del Duero. Officially, the Denominación de Origen (D.O.) of Ribera del Duero was founded on July 21, 1982 by an organisation of wine producers and growers who were determined to promote the quality of their wines and enforce regulatory standards. Deeper research shows that winemaking in Ribera dates back over 2,000 years to the Roman era, as evidenced by a recent find, a 66-meter mosaic of Bacchus, the god of wine, unearthed at Baños de Valdearados.

Tempranillo

The main grape variety of the Ribera region is Tempranillo, known locally as Tinto Fino or Tinta del País. Tempranillo, an early-ripening variety, (from “temprano” meaning “early”), is ideally suited to Ribera’s shorter growing season and extreme conditions. Widely planted and cherished throughout Spain, Tempranillo produces red wines that are well-balanced in sweetness, colour and acidity and yields fresh and fruity characteristics with appealing aromas such as black plums, cherry, and licorice. I often get calls from persons trying to understand some of the terms on the labels of these Spanish wines:

What we tasted

After a very detailed and informative tour of the entire winery and storage facilities, we were led to the tasting room to sample all that Protos had to offer; “So many wines, so little time”, I thought to myself, “we need to drive two hours back to Madrid after this.”

Anyway, on with the tasting. We began with two white wines, the 2010 Protos Verdejo and the 2009 Protos Verdejo en Barrica; we then moved on to taste through all the red wines: 2009 Protos Joven Roble, 2008 Protos Crianza, 2009 Protos Selección, 2005 Protos Reserva, 2004 Protos Grand Reserva, and they gave a very special sampling of the very special Private Club wine.

If all that was not enough, we then had lunch at Mesón Mauro, one of Castilla y León’s greatest roast houses. The fare comprised: salad, local cheese and chorizo, and the very delicious Lechazo Asado (a quarter of roast baby lamb), the best we ever tasted. We abandoned the silverware and grabbed the bones with our hands, washing it all down with Protos Crianza, of course.

Do try a Ribera del Duero wine like Protos soon.

The Architecture of Bodegas Protos

Protos, which comes from the Greek word for “FIRST”, was the first winery in the region making wines in the traditional ways. The company’s rapid growth led to the expansion of the winery throughout the region. The construction of a wine-aging cellar began in the heart of the mountain on which the Castle of Peñafiel was built. When we arrived at the winery and looked for parking, we finally realised why they suggested that we needed to visit this location despite the long drive; it was beautiful.

Nowadays the design of wineries by prestigious architects is a growing trend. But the facilities of Protos mark a turning point in the mastering of architectural techniques applied to functional spaces. They are not pleasant environments to complete daily tasks in the winery; these spaces are truly a work of art. For example, the barrel storage room, which can house about 10,000 barrels, turns space into luxury and strictness in which embellishments have no place. Polished concrete, glass and wood are the main materials used in the construction of this complex design by the prestigious architectural studio Rogers Stirk Harbour + Partners, which is led by Richard Rogers, in collaboration with the Catalonian Alonso Balaguer Arquitectos Asociados.

I often get calls from persons trying to understand some of the terms on the labels of these Spanish Wines; here is a brief classification:

Cosecha: or “Joven” usually do not see oak. “Joven Roble” and “Joven Barrica” are usually aged for only three to six months in oak, released soon after harvest. “Joven”-style wines are fruity and vibrant and meant to be consumed young.

o Crianza: Aged two years, with a minimum of one year in oak barrels. Crianza wines can be released after the first of October, two years after the harvest. These wines have well balanced tannins with a full-bodied and velvety mouthfeel.

o Reserva: Aged three years, with a minimum of one year in oak barrels; Reserva wines can only be placed on the market after the first of October in the third year after the harvest. After a minimum of one year in oak barrels, Reserva wines are bottle-aged in winery cellars, producing wines that are ready to drink once they enter the market. Reserva wines are elegant and intense, with a rich, lingering finish.

o Gran Reserva: Wines of outstanding quality, made in select vintage years only. Gran Reserva wines are aged a minimum of five years, with a minimum of two years in oak barrels, followed by additional bottle aging. The first release is allowed after the first of October, five years after the harvest. Gran Reserva wines are complex and structured, with great balance and vitality.

o Rosado: Rosé wines are fermented with minimal skin-to-juice contact and are available shortly after the harvest. These wines are easy to enjoy with refreshing wild berry flavours.

Chris Reckord – Entrepreneur & Wine Enthusiast. He and his wife Kerri-Anne are part-owners of Jamaica’s only Wine Bar – Bin 26 Wine Bar in Devon House, Kingston. Send your questions and comments to creckord@gmail.com . Follow us on twitter.com/DeVineWines