Jamaica Observer Food Awards guest chef Roger Mooking is craving fish, fresh whole fish, and the sea — the Caribbean sea. Mooking’s manager, Chris Smith (who oversees the careers of pop stars Nelly Furtado and Fefe Dobson), and Odessa Chambers, entertainment executive for Smith’s management company, reckon a day out at Hellshire with lunch at Screechie’s could be just the fix.

A Canadian-by-way-of-Trinidad, Roger Mooking is a certified culinary success story. He’s the host of a hit TV show, Everyday Exotic, aired on Canada’s Food Network (as well as the co-host of a new show, Heat Seekers, set to debut this July on the American Food Network) and the former part-owner of the trendy Toronto restaurants Nyood and Kultura Social Dining (he recently sold his stake in both eateries). The celebrity chef shares with Thursday Food that he’s very eager to see and taste more Jamaican food (having eaten at Gloria’s in the historic Port Royal town the evening before). His day out at the beach does not disappoint.

The beach is crawling with loud and spirited crowds, given it’s Labour Day. Families, friends and couples frolic in the aqua waters, play in the sand, and rest in the shade of seafront restaurants. Mooking’s seemingly permanent smile appears even broader when he takes in the sights around him. “This is nice,” he remarks with genuine sincerity. “It reminds me of being home in Trinidad when families go to the beach on weekends.” Mooking, a married father to three daughters (ages two months to four years old) misses his family back home, so the constant sight of little tots and children playing at every turn pleases him immensely. “When I’m not working, I’m at home,” shares Mooking, a natural charmer who chats up the kids he comes across. He is animated, gauges the children’s shifting temperaments well and isn’t afraid to play silly to endear himself to them.

As Smith takes an urgent overseas business call, Chambers escorts Mooking to the back of the restaurant to meet the press-shy Screechie. Official introductions and fist bumps out of the way, the matter of fish selection comes next, and Mooking looks through the array of sizes and varieties presented to him by Wayne Thomas — the in-house chef at Screechie’s. We’re advised prep time for the meal is 25 minutes maximum, so Mooking decides to explore the beach. He’s a lover of seafood, but likes it best when it’s fresh. Momentarily leaving the less frenetic area we are ensconced in, we head directly into the action where there is a denser population of bodies. On the populous beachfront, Mooking sees a coconut-jelly vendor and looks to satisfy one of his island must-haves by purchasing one of the fruits.

Our return to Screechie’s coincides with mealtime: golden-brown fried fish, bammies and festival. Mooking loves the freshness and finish of the meal, and loves even more the kick that the pickled onions and peppers add to the fish. Washing it down with a ginger beer, our guest chef’s appetite is satiated and he declares the eats at Hellshire perfectly tantalised his taste buds.