It’s 9:15 am. The overcast sky threatens rain and a light drizzle begins, but there’s never a dull moment in Stacey McKenzie’s company. Her spontaneous energy is ever present and as the vehicle she’s travelling in skilfully traverses the potholed road to Hellshire, she spots a roadside vendor selling sugar cane and gets instantly excited. “Oh, cane!” she blurts out with childish glee, made even more distinctive given her gravelly signature voice. The vehicle stops and the light-complexioned, freckled-faced international runway and fashion editorial veteran rolls down the back window and asks the price for the long stalk of cane leaning against the shack adorned with a variety of fruits, vegetables and clothes. “Mi cyaan cut nuh cane now,” comes the unexpected response from the surly vendor who seems to be in a bad mood. “Yu nuh serious ’bout business,” mutters a surprised and peeved Stacey, winding up the window as the car drives off — with the promise of sand, sea, seafood and fine weather as the skies are absolutely cloudless.

The unmistakable scents of salt water and frying fish greet us as the vehicle drives on the soft sands towards Prendy’s on the Beach. We’re warmly welcomed with firm handshakes and an easy smile by Donnette Prendergast who awaits Stacey and her party of four, including pal Trudie-Ann. Donnette and her equally affable hubby Junior operate the wellknown beachfront eatery (with a second location based at South Avenue, off Waterloo Road in Kingston). The restaurant is well kept, the staff mannerly and already preoccupied with prepping “earth seasonings,” as the dreadlocked Indian Junior refers to the vegetables and produce. Sliced and diced in plates are ripe and green plantains, onions, tomatoes, escallion, garlic and cucumbers. Sitting just outside the kitchen, on the ice, are fresh-from-the-sea lobster, fish, conch and crabs stored in coolers.

Stacey sheds her limited edition Klash Converse sneaks and funky Gaultier shirt-cum-dress to reveal a well toned body sporting a leopard Johnny Vincent swimsuit given to her (along with several other pieces) by the designer after she appeared in a show last year. The barmaid takes orders for drinks. Stacey, who doesn’t do alcoholic beverages, asks if there’s tea, preferably real mint. There is none, only teabags, and in her laid-back style she raises no objections. A self-professed foodie with a weakness for a gamut of Jamaican foods – from tamarind balls and jackfruit to steamed fish with okra, the Jamaican model is all too glad to see the tea come piping hot from the kitchen and placed on the table alongside a spread of lip-smacking seafood. There’s grilled and deep-fried garlic lobster in Prendy’s signature honey garlic sauce, curried and garlic crabs, stewed conch, fried parrot fishes, bammies and festivals. Though beachgoers lie idle in the sand or frolic in the inviting aqua-blue surf, it’s hard to divert attention away from the justlaid out buffet that’s a vision of colours and aromas. Conversation continues about her love of being on The Rock, and the fact that she toys with the idea of moving back permanently. But that’s an iffy proposition, as living in Canada allows her easier gateway access to international-bound modelling and fashion gigs … Jamaica proves a tad problematic for shuttling off to assignments. Soon, talk slowly ebbs as the temptation before us beckons, and there’s little resistance once the first morsel of lobster and fish passes between our lips. It’s seafood bliss, Hellshire-style!

PRENDY’S ON THE BEACH

Hellshire, St Catherine and 7 South Avenue, Kingston 10.

Telephone: 575-6057/881-9689 (Hellshire)

906-9058/575-6063/859-7926 (South Avenue)