Paying your Dues in the Food Industry
Recently, I’ve been very thrilled to see that my editor has initiated a series about how to proceed when making a decision to start a career in food. Lately, many people are jumping on the food bandwagon, especially being a chef, because they deem it to be “cool” or want to “make lots of money”. If this is the case, one is doing it based on trendiness or hype versus true passion. A couple years ago one of my columns stressed the difference between being a cook versus being a chef. The food industry is extremely tough and one must pay their dues. It can be a thankless job with little pay when you are just beginning. You have to have true grit and creativity to stick it out. As in any resolution you make, weigh the pros and cons before you make a choice.
Any big food star you witness had to start at the bottom even if he or she is a genius. There is a hierarchy in the food world and protocol one must follow: act wise and do not step on any toes. Going to Harvard for a month’s course, for example, does not make you a Harvard graduate. Likewise, there are many people going around saying they trained on this course or that, who have no kitchen experience whatsoever. Going to culinary school doesn’t automatically qualify you. You could have gone to the prestigious Culinary Institute of America, but you’d better believe it when I tell you that if you enter a professional kitchen, don’t get your ego bruised if you are asked to peel a sack full of potatoes or chop hundreds of onions before you even see the range. It doesn’t matter how fantastic or brilliant you are, there is a hierarchy, and you’d better respect seniority just like the military. When budding chefs ask me for advice, I always tell them to do free internships to get a foot in the door.
I am raising this topic in today’s column because over the past couple of weeks I have been meeting and having lively fun yet serious discourse with fellow food professionals of all backgrounds. Mostly foreign, and a few Jamaicans, they are all at the top of their game and have worked really hard to get where they are. Some are annoyed by the whiff of elitism, hype or commercialism surrounding food, while others are happy that food is finally receiving the recognition it deserves. Regardless of dissenting opinion on a few food topics, one thing we all agreed on is that while we all love ambition, there is pushiness with some of the newer “bandwagon set” who just don’t get it. They want it all and they want it now and in doing so, say or do things which can compromise the quality of their work, giving true food professionals a bad name due to a lack of experience or cockiness without truly knowing what this career is all about. People at the top of their game can demand high prices and will deliver excellent service because they have paid their dues and have proved their worth over time through their superior knowledge and savvy.
Many of us apprenticed and did free work experience to learn from the masters. Some of these new “bandwagon set” only deal with money, want to get paid for a top position they haven’t worked for, or get upset because the dollars are not rolling in fast enough. They overcharge for their services and don’t deliver. I guess this can be said for many other professions and is a sign of the times. They want everything handed to them on a platter, pun intended. Recently in my class I asked some thought-provoking questions on why some of my students were in the culinary field. Some were very clear in the direction they wanted to take, while others faltered. I think for the latter, it was the first time they truly pondered why they were there.
I am not trying to discourage those of you who want to enter the field; the more of us, the merrier, but please do it for the genuine love of it. Nothing is worse than being stuck in a job that you hate. I am just sharing reality. I have spent many days suffering from a sore back, swollen feet and verbal abuse hurled at me by sexist or indeed racist chefs. Discover what you truly love and don’t “follow fashion”. Respect those who are already in the field, work hard, learn from them, listen and observe, but most of all, be humble. Food is love, and you don’t want to poison or turn people off via food laced with bitterness. You are only as good as your last dish; this is what people will remember when they depart your table.
Chinese-Style Garlicky Eggplant and Tofu with Sesame Seeds
Who doesn’t love Chinese food? I adore it! Jamaican Chinese hybrid cuisine is hands down some of the best Chinese I’ve eaten in the world. I am especially enamoured with Chinese- style eggplant in the Szechuan style. This region of China is known for its spicy food, which I know the Jamaican palate can appreciate. This particular recipe is my version of a dish I used to love at Hong Kong Diner in London’s China Town. I’m not sure if this restaurant still exists, but I used to frequent it as a student. It was a cheap, clean and cheerful place at the time. It’s fine on its own, tofu is optional, but I used some leftover pieces to add protein. Serve on its own with rice for a vegetarian meal or as a side dish to complement a variety of choices. There are so many flavours to this dish: sweet, salty, and spicy overtones.
Ingredients:
6 Chinese eggplants (this is locally grown, by the way), sliced
Handful of diced tofu
3 cloves of garlic, minced
1 inch piece of ginger, roughly chopped
2 escallion stalks, finely sliced
2 tbsps soy sauce
2 tbsps Cooking Sherry
1 tbsp rice wine vinegar
2 tbsps Hoisin sauce
1 tbsp sweet chilli sauce
1/4 tsp cornstarch
4 tbsps water
2 tbsp sesame seed oil
Sesame seeds, for garnish
Method:
Heat sesame oil over high heat in a wok and add eggplant and tofu, cook until golden brown.
Add garlic, ginger and escallion, toss together.
Next add soy sauce, sherry, rice wine vinegar, hoisin sauce and sweet chilli sauce and cook for a few minutes.
Mix cornstarch and water and add to pan to slightly thicken the sauce.
Sprinkle over sesame seeds and serve immediately.
Chocolate Coconut Cake
This is my riff on Lamington cake, an Australian cake I enjoy that is named after Lord Lamington who was the Governor of Queensland from 1896 to 1901. They are typically square, but mine is round. I think the recent floods there have made me think of this one. I have loads of friends who live in “Oz”, as this continent is affectionately known. Some cakes are made with corn flour added, while others use cocoa powder. Some also have a layer of raspberry or strawberry jam in the middle. I prefer a plain vanilla sponge. It’s great with a cup of tea or coffee.
Ingredients:
200g/1 cup unsalted butter
250g/1 cup granulated sugar
2 tsps divided vanilla extract
3 eggs
250ml/ 1 cup plain yoghurt
350g/ 1 1/2 cups self-raising flour
200g/1 cup semi sweet chocolate
250ml/ 1 cup heavy cream
Desiccated coconut to cover cake
Method:
Preheat oven to 350ûF.
Cream butter and sugar together until light and fluffy.
Add eggs and 1 tsp vanilla and mix well.
Add flour and yoghurt in stages to fully incorporate
Bake for 50 to 55 minutes.
Melt chocolate and cream together with the rest of vanilla, mix until smooth.
Cool down completely and it will get thicker.
Spread the chocolate mixture all over the cooled cake.
Sprinkle desiccated coconut all over the top and sides.
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Bon Appétit!