A Moment with Marco
Clad in a white crew-neck tee, blue jeans and checkered Vans, Marco Pierre White is the picture of casual as he prepares to entertain questions from Lifestyle Editor Novia McDonald-Whyte as well as participants at last week’s Jamaica Observer Foodie Seminar.
Much like his attire, he’s seemingly relaxed and it’s hard to believe that the international celebrity guest chef is the firebrand one reads about or sees on television. His passion for the culinary arts is almost palpable as his respect for people and their respective crafts. Thursday Food brings you a moment with Marco.
Now you’re the celebrated Marco Pierre White, but what was your journey like, how did it all start?
I started my career many years ago… I came from humble beginnings in Leeds and in those days children followed the profession of their parents. My father and grandfather were chefs, so for me it was kind of a natural progression. I started thinking that if I was going to be a cook I might as well work in the finest restaurant in Yorkshire (which was at that time) the Box Tree.
I went to work there and I realised that the star rating was used in restaurants — the Box Tree had two of the three Michelin stars then. While there, I would read lots of books and I sort of fell in love with the great French restaurants and the romance of them.
I went to London, still a teenager, without qualifications and knocked at the back door and asked for a job at Le Gavroche (a French restaurant)… and to this day, I owe a lot to a man named Albert Roux, I’d say he gave me my first break. MPW’s training continued under Pierre Koffman at La Tante Claire moving to work in the kitchen of Raymond Blanc at Le Manoir aux Quatre Saisons.
Tell us about the Michelin Stars.
In those days it was unheard of for a restaurant to have two stars… it was a bit of a novelty. We opened Harveys in Wandsworth Common, London in 1987; at that time I had acquired 33 per cent of the shares…we won our first Michelin star almost immediately and in 1988 the second.
And the third Michelin star?
I met a gentleman named Rocco who operated the Hyde Park Hotel, he really opened the door for me… we moved (into the restaurant) in 1993, put in a proper kitchen, and by January 1995 we won three stars.
Marco Pierre White had become at the age of 33, the youngest chef to be awarded three Michelin stars.
And your thoughts on giving them back?
Sometimes we can get so caught up that we forget our purpose… a chef’s place is behind the stove. It didn’t feel organic anymore.
I felt like I was being judged by people who knew less than I did; I began to wonder if it was all truly worth it…I had three options: I could continue to work six days a week, I could live a lie and charge high prices…(the one thing the Michelin does is have its clients on a wealth diet) and not be behind the stove or I could give my stars back…I gave back my stars.
And what happened when you retired?
When I retired I did what I did when my mother died, I went back to nature. I sought inspiration from the wonder of the environment.
You’ve been a successful chef for nearly three decades; how important is it to have a grasp on the business side of things?
I have no clue about business…in life you either choose to be an artist or a scientist, and if you’re an artist it means you choose to live helter-skelter. If you’re being dictated by money then you compromise your talents as a chef… get an accountant who knows how to balance the books.
To what do you owe your longevity?
Longevity is born out of integrity.
Did you experience failure on your way to success?
Just because someone achieves success doesn’t make him or her great. It’s the mistakes that give you the knowledge to do things differently the next time around.
What’s your opinion on genetically modified foods?
I’ve never really thought about it, but I work with the Bernard Matthews’ Turkeys in the UK and I am criticised for doing that.
I come from humble beginnings and were it not for (Matthews’ turkeys) many families would be without a turkey on Christmas.
What are your thoughts on Jamaican food?
What I like about Jamaican food is that it has integrity. It doesn’t matter what it is and it doesn’t matter if it’s not the finest food in the world, but there’s a certain pride and passion about it. However, one problem I always find with Jamaican food is that it’s inconsistent.
Advise to a young chef?
Read, read all you can… I have one shelf with over 30 books, all of them in French, and I still go back to them even now.
And you must remember, too, that cooking is self-taught… someone can show you, but the magic is born within yourself.
We’ve enjoyed you on television, where we’ve seen your compassion. Where does it come from?
I’ve been raised by old-school chefs who established a firm but fair rule. I don’t believe in capitalising on people’s failure… what do you have to gain from losing your temper?
By outlining your demands with firmness you keep staff on their toes, but I believe in doing so with love and affection.
What do you do when you’re not in the kitchen?
I have a love affair with nature, so I’m always fishing, hunting and seeing the countryside. It keeps you passionate to stay connected to nature so that when the produce arrives you respect it, you want to show it off for what it is.