A fresh approach to traditional Chinese cuisine
AN unexpected trip to Hong Kong for a friend’s wedding had me bursting with excitement over the prospect of two weeks of decadent gastronomic indulgence, and cultural and artistic delights.
Hong Kong is truly a place of cultural fusion where east meets west, where traditions and trends merge and where modern Western culture is juxtaposed daily with the customs of old world China.
A surprisingly beautiful sight to behold, Hong Kong’s intimidating skyline of modern high-rise structures, nestled off its harbour like a shimmering piece of jade, is set against a backdrop of lush hills and tropical foliage. The harbour is vast, dense and polluted but quite spectacular to behold; here the smell of salt and sea permeate the air and there is a bustle of constant activity as traditional Chinese junks, passenger ferries, cargo ships and small fishermen all vie for space on the busy waterfront.
Despite its obvious Chinese heritage and its modern role as the financial centre of Asia, Hong Kong has retained a certain colonial feel that was very familiar to me and has an easy, laid-back lifestyle that is strangely reminiscent of Caribbean living.
The culinary scene is equally diverse – a transient society where young, ambitious people from all over the globe spend time trying to make their fortunes, its nightlife and restaurants are never-ending. From Haute Cuisine to East-meets-West fusion, from trendy bars to low-key spots that serve up traditional regional specialties from mainland China, Hong Kong has something for all palates.
A visit to Lan Kwai Fong and its streetside bars with live music, cafés and multi-ethnic restaurants is essential for the foodie and party lover. But in reality, there is no corner of Hong Kong that does not hold some type of culinary delight; all cuisines can be found here – from vegetarian, Southern Indian to Traditional French and Italian, Thai, Japanese, Vietnamese, Arabic and of course there is the Dim Sum, a daily tradition for most Hong Kong locals. Another recent trend on the local scene is the emergence of “at-home” dining – intimate evenings where a family will host guests at their home and provide a multi-course tasting menu. Food can range here from traditional regional cuisine to more modern interpretations of old-time favourites.
But of all the culinary variety that I had the opportunity to sample, two dining experiences stood out for me as the most memorable: The rehearsal dinner in the library of the exclusive China Club and the multi-course traditional Cantonese Wedding Banquet – or shall I say feast – that was held at the Chater Room at Hong Kong’s Jockey Club.
The menu items selected for these special occasions were no coincidence and all dishes had a particular symbolism for the bride and groom. The rehearsal dinner and wedding banquet included traditional dishes of crispy Roasted Suckling Pig, a symbol of virginity; simple Steamed fish, representing abundance; Lobster, red being a symbol for happiness; and Peking Duck served whole to symbolise completeness. Other specialties included Shark’s Fin Soup as a sign of wealth, Pigeons to represent peace, and Noodles for longevity. The eight-course wedding banquet was completed by a selection of Chinese cakes and fruit to help to ensure a ‘sweet life’ for the bride and groom.
This was a thoroughly unique experience and as the meal progressed each course was even more delicate than the previous, leaving an enticingly subtle taste on the palate.
Intrigued by the fresh nature of the food I had eaten, I was inspired to take a day trip to the New Territories to visit a more “traditional” Chinese market. Upon arrival I was greeted with an abundant display of fresh fruit and vegetables, dried and preserved fruits and traditional Chinese sweets, nuts, seeds and spices. As I meandered deeper into the market I encountered the most incredible selection of fresh (and when I say fresh I mean so fresh that they were breathing) meats and seafood. This was a novel experience: as a Westerner I must say that I am unaccustomed to seeing live frogs and turtles for sale by the dozen (or was it by the pound) at a local market. In fact, the Chinese believe that anything that has its back up to the sky is good to eat and believe me the fresher, the better. Indeed I drew some strange and amused looks from the locals as I, in complete awe, began to snap away with my camera.
One thing was very clear to me at the end of my fascinating journey: Hong Kong may be modern and technologically advanced but it has managed to retain certain cultural traditions that have combined with international influences to create a truly unique culinary experience for the visitor.
Whether you are savouring a gelato at a sidewalk café in Lan Kwai Fong, dining at the ‘uber’ chic Phillipe Starck-designed Felix at the Peninsula hotel or munching on Dim Sum in one of Kowloon’s local haunts – one thing is certain – you will only be eating creations that are made from the freshest possible ingredients. I saw it with my own two eyes. And trust me, you can taste it from the very first bite.