Stop and the South coast taste
AS the nation looks to 40 years of independence, it’s definitely time to rediscover our beautiful countryside. The Food Page has started on our own quest, and to this end, headed out on Monday to Westmoreland. We took the scenic highway south coast route, and yes, got caught up in both the euphora of new waterfalls, as well as a 40 minute traffic snarl on the Melrose Bypass in Porous, Manchester.
That aside, the foodstops, from one end of the island to the next, taking in the Old Harbour Bypass, May Pen Bypass, and the Winston Jones Highway are worth a taste as well as a stop.
With water gushing out of the rocks on both shoulders of the Melrose Bypass and traffic literally at a standstill, it seemed the perfect opportunity to stretch the legs and fill the lungs with fresh Manchester air.
It is here that we encounter Vencott Bryant, with his attractive vacuum “Reggae Packs” (from The Fish Cabin in May Pen) — containers of escoveitched snapper, festival and bammy. At a cost of $120 and with lots of beverages to quench the thirst, it’s a great way to start a vacation.
Our next stop is at the Melrose Yam Park, where yellow yam — black whisk and round leaf are being scraped, sliced in two, and then slathered with butter. To top this off, the all-time favourite, Jamaican flaky delicacy saltfish is added.
Christopher Taylor, aka “Duppy”, is all business. His foil is torn with precision and his sharp knife glides effortlessly through the charred skin of yam. His stall #7 and aptly called “Digesting Yam” has been his spotlight for the past two years. He prepares for us an extra large package. His charge is $300 and his recommendation is black whisk, it’s a soft variety (yam) and well suited for those persons who (like me) are not lovers of butter spread over the yam. There’s enough for two very hungry individuals.
“Duppy” sells over 30lbs of yam each day. A busy weekend affords more sales.
Shelly McLean at stall #3 has made a smooth transition from the old road to the new super highway. Beside her are sticks of wood pimento, orange, starapple, guinep, etc. Here we have the secret to her delicious yams.
Hers is a long-standing family tradition, one that has taken her family through life. “The overheads are high,” she laments. The foil, the butter, the saltfish, the yam — all expensive ingredients. “My best times are Independence and Christmas when lots of visitors stop and eat,” she informs us.
Middle Quarters is our next stop, and naturally we find ourselves negotiating for bags of peppered shrimps. Keisha Johnson is herself an astute negotiator with bags tightly packed and ready to go at prices which range from $150-$250. Her shrimps are purchased from farmers at Slipe, Lacovia, and Clarendon. Business is far from brisk, but there’s still a positive feel, and lots of good vibes.
It’s hard to resist the corn, which sits atop the head of Olive Robinson.
Scott’s Cove Fish Park, on the border of St Elizabeth and Westmoreland is our last foodstop, before checking into Beaches Negril. Nothing prepares you for the sprint of fish and bammy vendors. Eager to sell their crisp, attractively presented plates of fish and fat bammies, it might prove difficult for you to decide which plate, not to mention which vendor to choose.
The good news is that at $800 per plate of fish, and at a mere $200 per bag of bammy, there’s very little reason to resist the eager groups.